Porterfield Brake Rotors/Pads and Speed Bleeder Installation - 1995 3000GT VR-4

• Why Do I Want To Do This?

  • Brake pads should be replaced when they are worn beyond their minimum thickness.
  • Brake rotors should be replaced when they are worn beyond their minimum thickness.
  • Speed Bleeders make bleeding your brake system's hydraulic lines MUCH easier.
  • Upgraded pads can offer more braking performance vs. the OEM pads.
  • If you're going to an open-track event, your stock brakes are not going to be adequate after a few laps.



• How Often Should I Do This?

  • Replace your pads/rotors whenever they are worn.
  • Speed Bleeders are a one-time installation.



• How Long Will It Take Me To Do This?

  • If you've done brakes before, plan on 90 minutes to 2 hours.
  • If you're still learning, plan on 3-4 hours.



• Anything I Should Do Prior To Attempting This Procedure?

  • Raise the front end of the car and support it with jack stands.
  • Remove both front wheels.



• What Mitsubishi Parts Will I Need?

  • None.



• What Other Parts Will I Need?

  • Porterfield R4S [street] or R4 [race] Brake Pads
  • Porterfield Rotors
  • Speed Bleeders (SB1010 F/R for '94+)
  • Brake Fluid (I use ATE Super Blue)
  • Anti-sieze Lubricant [optional]
  • Brake Shim Lubricant



• What Tools May/Will I Need?

  • 17mm 3/8" or 1/2" Drive 6-point Socket
  • 3/8" or 1/2" Drive Ratchet
  • 24" Cheater Bar [optional]
  • 10mm Wrench
  • 3/8" Wrench
  • 4" or Larger C-Clamp
  • Rubber Mallet [optional]
  • Shop Towels
  • String or Bungee Cords



• Erik's Review

  • Speed Bleeders are awesome - everyone should have them. They makes brake bleeding phenomenally easier.
  • Porterfield R4S pads are great for the street, but I cooked them at the track. If you're going to the track, get R4 pads.

The Procedure

	Raise Car and Remove Front Wheels
	Standard procedure - just like you've done many other times...
	Examine Your Brakes
	Make sure everything looks cool and there is no evidence of fluid leaking.
	Remove Clips
	Remove the little metal spring clip that holds the pins that go through the pads. It's on the right side in the picture, and it just pops off Now remove the larger, cross-shaped spring clip in the center of the caliper opening.
	Remove Pins
	Now you should be able to slide the two pins that go through the pads' backing plates out like in the picture.
	Remove Brake Pads
	Remove both the inner and outer pads by simply pulling them out of the hole in the caliper. Really easy...
	Unbolt Caliper
	Remove the two 17-mm bolts that hold the caliper on the knuckle. Picture shows both bolts loosened.
	Support Caliper
	At this point, the only thing holding the caliper on the car is the brake line, which should not be stressed by the weight of a hanging caliper. Use string or a bungee cord or something like that to support the caliper so it doesn't strain the brake line.
	Remove Rotor
	Remove the brake rotor by sliding it off of the studs. Maybe you'll be lucky and it'll just come off. If not, try tapping it with a rubber mallet. If that doesn't work, there are two threaded holes in the rotor hat (between the holes for the studs) that you can thread a bolt into. Find 2 spare bolts in your junk box, and carefully thread them into the holes in the rotor. Alternately tighten the bolts a turn at a time, and hopefully the rotor will break free.
	Compare Old and New Rotor
	Make sure they're the same size/thickness and all that. Porterfield on the left, 35,000 mile OEM on the right.
	Compress Brake Caliper Pistons
	Since the new pads will likely be thicker than the old pads (and the new rotor possibly thicker, too), you'll need to compress the pistons to make room. There are many ways to do this, but I usually use a C-clamp and an old brake pad. Whatever you do, you want to compress the pistons straight back into the caliper and it shouldn't require too much force. It's probably a good idea to loosen the cap on the brake fluid reservoir before you start compressing the pistons.
	Install New Rotor
	The new rotor should just slide over the studs and sit there nicely..
	Attach Caliper
	Put those 17mm bolts back in the caliper and secure it to the knuckle. Tighten the bolts to 65 ft*lbs. If you want to make the job easier in the future, put some anti-sieze lubricant on the threads of the bolts before you install them.
	Install New Brake Pads
	Remove the clips and shims from the back of the old pads and put them on the new pads. You may want to put of brake pad lubricant between the shim and the back of the pad (backing plate) to help thwart brake squealing. Slide the new pads in on either side of the rotor.
	Install Brake Pad Pins
	Slide them in the holes and make sure they pass through the holes in the pads, too.
	Install Brake Pad Clips
	Install them in the positions they were in when then came off.
	Install Speed Bleeder
	Remove the old 10mm bleeder screw and thread in the speed bleeder. Use a 3/8" wrench to tighten the Speed Bleeder until it's snug, then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. You're gonna lose a little bit of brake fluid here, so put a shop towel on the floor to catch it.
	Bleed Brake Lines
	Attach a small clear hose to the nipple on the bleeder screw after removing the rubber cap. Put the other end of the hose in a disposable jar or container. Bleed your brakes by filling the master cylinder reservoir and then pumping the brake pedal up and down until you see clean fluid in the tubing and no air bubbles. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir doesn't run dry or you get to start all over. That's a LOT easier than the "Up? UP! Down? DOWN!" method you have to use with normal bleeder screws!
	Tighten Speed Bleeder
	Tighten the speed bleeder to 32-40 inch-pounds (not FOOT POUNDS!) and then press the brake pedal hard a few times to check for fluid leaks. If you have no leaks, then put the rubber cap back on the Speed Bleeder.
	Admire Your New Brakes
	Aren't they pretty? :-)
	Repeat for Other Side
	Rear Brakes [optional]
	Basically the same procedure for the rear brakes...
	Install Wheels and Lower Car